Madera champagne. If the sun's rays taste like vinho da Madeira! History of the creation of wine

We do not choose good alcohol in order to lose control over the situation and our emotions. We take it to fully experience the atmosphere of the evening, to celebrate a really significant event, to be with friends or a loved one. Therefore, good alcohol cannot be cheap. Still, they put their soul into it! If you want an original strong wine, then the ideal choice is Madera Massandra. This drink has a rich bouquet, delicate but very strong aroma, pleasant taste and long aftertaste.

From the history

"Madera Massandra" is a fortified white wine with a single producer in Crimea. The biography of this alcoholic drink dates back to 1892. From time immemorial, the basis was very sweet grapes of the varieties Albillo, Verdello and Sersial. Such a long history certainly suggests that the drink should have its own flavor. Of course it is. The maderization process became special, the meaning of which lies in the five-year aging of the wine, for which oak barrels are used. By the way, exposure is in open sunlight. Because of this special feature, the Crimean "Madera Massandra" was named "twice born by the sun". The aging process takes about 40% of the original volume from the wine, but this is a reasonable price to pay for the opportunity to enjoy a truly unique drink.

Why drink?

"Madera Massandra" is a real mystery for a true gourmet, because it is a "masculine" drink with a truly "feminine" essence. This wine is compared to a woman-mystery, a woman-coquette, able to give unprecedented pleasure, if you reveal her secret. The attractiveness of such a "lady" is distinguished by discreetness, but hidden charisma, because of which, once you try it, it is impossible to refuse a new use. This wine could never be called an image drink. His presence at the festive table was never obligatory. This is not sherry or port, although these wines are close in origin to Madeira. But this unique one could always boast of his circle of fans. Even the name itself was pronounced aspirated, and the fascination with the wonderful properties of the drink was compared to passion. Such honors have never dreamed of recognized trendsetters in alcohol fashion. Drinking wine in one gulp is a thoughtless waste. Here you need to enjoy the bouquet, inhale the vapors and taste drop by drop in order to understand the true value of drinking. Why drink it? Yes, to feel the taste of real wine to the last drop!

From the very beginning

Madeira, or Madeira - this was the name of the wine in those ancient times, when it was made on the wooded island of the same name in Portugal. The principles of manufacturing and aging have survived unchanged to this day. Therefore, even today, a sugar-amine reaction occurs in wine, which explains the amber color and caramel-nutty notes in taste and aroma.

The first vines on the island of Madeira took root in 1453. It was that year that can be considered a prerequisite for the emergence of the drink, but in fact, chance helped. Portuguese ships brought wine to India, but because of the calm they drifted for a long time in equatorial latitudes under the scorching sun. The wine had to be taken to Europe, but at the end of the trip, the drink changed its taste and aroma, getting in the process shades and caramel.

There is another version of the origin of Madeira, according to which the stony moist soil of the island did not allow building cellars, and the wine had to be stored in the attic, where it was warmed by the sun.

The beginning of a long journey

World fame came to the drink in the 16th century, when Dutch merchants began to take it for export. The first admirers were the British, who could sell a house for a barrel of a drink. The high cost did not prevent wine from acquiring the status of a cult alcohol. There were great people among the fans. For example, the Duke of Clarence, brother of Edward, King of England, who was sentenced to death, wished to be drowned in this guilt. In the 18th century, ladies used Madeira as perfume by dipping their scarves into it. But in Russia at the beginning of the last century, the drink was highly respected by Grigory Rasputin himself, who could consume 5-6 liters of wine for dinner. Even poison was poured into his glass of wine and cakes. By the way, it was the sugar (!) Contained in the cakes and wine that weakened the effect. After all, Rasputin did not die of poisoning. Considering that he was a strong man, his love for ordinary wine would have caused distrust, but "Madera Massandra" reviews, rating and strength always had the corresponding unique drink. At international exhibitions, the drink received 10 gold medals!

Crimean pride

The historical homeland of the drink remained immortalized in its name, but when Russians mention Madeira, an association with Crimea arises. Indeed, the village near Yalta, located in the southern part of the peninsula, is an excellent place for growing Shabash, Albillo and Sersial grapes. The largest in Europe site for the production of a drink is arranged. By the way, Madera Massandra is produced in the Kuban, Krasnodar Territory, Armenia and Moldova. from the Crimea has always been considered the standard of quality. Only once did the work on the production of wine cease. This was the period of the Great Patriotic War. But the drinks were evacuated to Tbilisi, as they were of value akin to works of art. Home wine returned only in 1945. Now the Crimean basements contain crops of all years, from 1900 to the present day.

Maderization

Rose, white and red grape varieties are used to make Madeiran wines. In the Crimea, however, they do it only on the basis of white. The grapes grow on centuries-old vines, as they did on the Portuguese island. differs from the original recipe only by the addition of refined grain alcohol instead of grape alcohol. Therefore, the taste of European wine is softer. The drink is aged in barrels, the wood for which is supplied from Moldova or Krasnodar. These should be old barrels, as the strong saturation of oak tannins has a negative effect on the taste of the wine. Therefore, before pouring wine into the barrel, a person climbs inside and scrapes off the top layer of wood. This is what makes Madera Massandra different from other drinks. The testimonials of the tasters confirm the fact that even today the wine retains the unforgettable taste of the past. At the same time, the drink does not become obsolete, but remains forever young and relevant. Isn't this the dream of a true winemaker ?!

Buyers say

Our people love good wine, but they are in no hurry to overpay for it, so a recognized brand is the key to success and commercial benefits. Madera withstands a long time under the scorching sun and only gains its taste and aroma. Helps to enrich wine and air space in containers. For several seasons in the sun, Madeira reaches the desired condition, after which it goes to the basement. By the way, the wine stays cool for several more years before it goes to the buyer. If necessary, Madeira is blended. There are factories that manufacture products using simplified technology. They have maderization which is carried out in artificially heated barrels. Withstand such analogs for only a year.

The artificial "Madera Massandra" also receives diverse customer reviews, but one can immediately conclude that this is a product of more mass consumption. The strength remains at the level, but the caramel-nut tones of the drink fade into the background. The result is wine for a banal feast, not ambrosia for the elite!

Drinking tradition

This noble drink deserves respect and consideration of the rules for its use. This is the only way to enjoy the full potential of wine. Madeira is an excellent aperitif, provided the doses are moderate. If you cool the drink a little, then it can be harmoniously combined with snacks and hot dishes. The wine has a very pleasant smell, but the taste is harsh for the first time, and therefore it may not be very pleasant to stretch the process and drink in sips.

If you decide to taste Madera Massandra wine, how to drink it correctly? Slowly, but confidently. Pour alcohol into tall-stemmed tulip glasses. Remember not to heat the glass and only need to fill it two thirds full. Thus, the person can shake up the wine and catch the additional aromas before sipping. Uncork the bottle and let the wine breathe.

Serve with soul

A true connoisseur of elite alcohol will not allow himself to eat processed cheese. The serving process is very important to the mood and feel of the guests. So, "Madera Massandra" appeared on your table. What is this drink served with? Let us remind you that Madeira is a long-liver that can be stored for as long as you like. So you can buy it in advance and for future use. If the wine has been aged for more than 50 years, then notes of pear, fig, quince and date are added to the nutty aroma. This drink should be served in the afternoon with a variety of snacks. Fruits, peanut butter sandwiches will do. The taste of cigars is revealed in a new way with wine. Madera sets off the taste of ham and smoked meat. And, of course, it is worth remembering Rasputin and having a snack of wine with cakes. This is a delicious dessert with alcoholic notes!

Probably, many have not only heard, but also tasted wine called "Madera" - Kuban, Dagestan, Crimean Massandra or Portuguese. From the name of this fortified wine, you can guess that it owes them to an island in the Atlantic Ocean. The island of Madeira was colonized by the Portuguese at the beginning of the 15th century, around the same time the first vines were introduced to the island. At that time, Portugal had a large number of colonies, ships stopping off the coast of Madeira, after unloading the goods, often took on board barrels of wine simply as ballast.

Madera wine

There was little space in the hold and they were simply left on deck. When traveling to hot countries under the scorching rays of the sun, the barrels of wine became very hot during the day, the wine greatly changed its taste. This is how Madeira wine and the technology of its production were born. To prevent the wine from spoiling during the trip, grape alcohol was added to it and, thus, the strength of the wine increased to 19-20% by volume. To improve the taste and reduce acidity, the wine was sent to storage in the cellars after such a long journey. After aging for several years, madeira acquired the characteristic roasted nut flavor.

The modern technology of Madeira's production, of course, differs from the old one; no one sends wine on a deck trip to India and back. After fermentation, which is interrupted at one stage or another by the addition of grape alcohol, the wine is heated. Cheaper varieties of wine are poured into large-capacity stainless steel vats - estufa, which are equipped with a coil. Hot water or steam is passed through the coil and the wine is gradually heated to 40-50 ° C. This temperature is maintained for several months, then the wine is slowly cooled and sent to age in barrels or immediately bottled. If the temperature is exceeded, the wine takes on an unpleasant, boiled taste.

The more prestigious wine is naturally warmed by the sun's heat in casks. The barrels are placed directly in the open air, or in structures resembling greenhouses, sometimes barrels are aged in attics. Wine thus spends three to four seasons. In the cold season, barrels from the street are rolled into the cellars. Upon completion of the heat exposure in the sun, the barrels are additionally aged in the cellars.

Madera is almost always blended wines and contains several grape varieties. In accordance with European standards, wines can be named after grapes if their blend contains at least 85% of this variety. For the production of classic wine, five grape varieties are used:

Verdelho (Verdello) Is a white grape grown in large quantities on the island of Madeira. It produces semi-dry to semi-sweet wines with high acidity. We grow it in the Crimea.

Sercial- grows in the high mountain areas of the island (up to 1000 m) in the coolest areas. It is less sweet, matures slowly and makes the driest wine.

Bual or Boal Is a rather rare grape variety grown in the southern part of the island. It produces a sweeter, oily and darker wine with strong acidity.

Malvasia, Malvazia, Malmsey (Malvasia) Is the oldest and most famous white grape variety. It makes a rich, dark and sweet wine.

Tinta Negra Mole Is a less noble black grape, very often used for making modern wines. Now this grape occupies large areas on the island and is included in most wines. It is believed that this variety originated from Pinot Noir and Grenache. It produces softer wines with a pink tint, which turns into amber with aging.

Madeira varieties are named according to the grape varieties. The driest and palest is Sersial. A little sweeter, but you can say dry - Verdello. Semi-sweet, with a rich nutty flavor and darker - Boile. The sweetest and most famous is Malmsey (the Portuguese name for the Malvasia grapes distorted by the British). There is another interesting and rare variety - Rainwater. This variety was created by chance - a batch of wine accidentally remained in barrels outside for the winter. Heavy rains in bad weather soaked the wood, the wine was diluted with water and turned out to be softer and lighter, with a lower alcohol concentration. This wine received recognition, and they began to make it on purpose.

Sercial Vintage Wine 1969

Malmsey 1976

Depending on the aging, the wine is divided into the following categories: Finest - wines of this category are aged in barrels for at least 18 months; Reserves - the aging of this wine is 5 years; Special Reserves - these are wines aged for at least 10 years; Extra Reserves - aged for at least 15 years; Vintages - wine of this category must mature for at least 20 years in a barrel and another couple of years in a bottle. Good varieties of wine must be marked with the vintage of the grape.

These are highly oxidized wines with increased alcoholism, a complex aroma and taste that is second to none, with strongly pronounced almond tones and a rum-cognac hue. You can feel the flavors of roasted nuts, bread crust and caramel. The increased acidity of the wine manifests itself in the form of a slight bitterness. The color of the wine can be from rich dark amber shades to the color of weakly brewed tea. Young wine is lighter in color, matte and sharper in taste. With aging, it becomes oily, softer and velvety in taste. Experts say that after aging for 40-50 years or more, the wine gives a peculiar feeling of silk on the tongue, shades of dates and figs appear.

In terms of life span, Madera are considered centenarians. This is not surprising, since fortified wine, and even withstood the effects of such a high temperature that would destroy any wine! Most wines reach their peak development in 100-150 years and can be stored for a long time. Vintage wine can still be freely purchased on the island until the mid-19th century.

Wine can be served in small glasses. It is better to drink drier varieties at chilled temperatures of 15-17 ° C, this softens harsh notes well. If the wines are darker, sweeter and heavier, they can be served at room temperature. It is better to drink them after dinner, as a digestif (see article) with various desserts, biscuits or coffee. Dry wines are good to drink during lunch, for example, with soup. It goes well with various pastries and pies with fruit fillings.

Do not forget that a large amount of wine is used to prepare a variety of sauces, it is also used in the preparation of second courses - stuffed poultry, game, preparing a variety of pates and many other dishes.

All the above, of course, refers to the classic Madeira wines, but do not forget the domestic counterparts. The Crimean wines produced by Massandra are considered very good. Their technology is no different from the Portuguese.

We conclude the article about Madeira wine with a photograph of Funchal, the capital of Madeira.

Funchal view

Undoubtedly, the story about our trip to Madeira would not be complete without mentioning another attraction, which, as I already wrote, called here "liquid gold" - this is a local fortified wine. And although in the original its name has the same spelling as that of the island itself, I will call it "Madeira" (without and-short).

As in the case of "sherry", the story of "Madeira" deserves a separate chapter of the story and is largely based on a visit to the Blandy`s winery, where we had the pleasure of being on a guided tour and tasting.

In addition, we tried different Madeira at dinners and got a more or less complete idea of the taste of this alcoholic drink.

Madeira classification

Madeira species are directly related to the grape varieties from which it is produced. The main grape varieties grown on the island for Madeira production are classified into four types (all white):

Sercial (Esgana Cao) - "sercial" or dry madeira;
Verdelho (Gouveio) - "verdel" or semi-dry;
Boal (Bual, Malvasia Fina) - "boal" or semi-sweet;
Malmsey (Malvasia Candida) - "Malvasia" or sweet.

In addition to those listed, Terrantez (Folgasao, white) and Bastardo (Trousseau, red) grapes are used much less often - rare varieties, like the wines obtained from them. From "tyrantysh" - about this the first of them sounds in Portuguese, it turns out semi-dry Madeira, from "bastardo" - semi-sweet.

Finally, the most widespread grape variety at the present time is Tinta Negra ("Tinta Negra"), which the Madeira people themselves shyly call "chameleon" - from it all four types of Madeira are obtained: from dry to sweet. I'll talk about "Tinta Negro" a little later.

Grape harvest and fermentation

Harvesting and fermentation (fermentation) varies greatly in time depending on the grape variety. So "boal" and "malvasia" are harvested earlier and fermented with the skin, "verdel" and "sessial" are harvested later and cleaned before fermentation. The fermentation time for sweet varieties can be as little as a few hours, while for dry varieties it can last for several months.

As for the vineyards themselves, different producers had a different approach to growing grapes. So Blandy`s, in whose winery we were on an excursion, had only a few hectares of its own vineyards, and bought the bulk of the grapes from farmers. The quality criterion was the amount of sugar in the vine, and there were legends about the delivery of grapes to the point of sale in Madeira.

It is now, when roads and transport appeared on the island, it is not difficult to deliver the harvested crop, and a century ago, when there were only levadas from the available types of communication, grapes had to be delivered manually. Such "delivery men" or "barreleiros", named for the large goatskin sack in which they carried the grapes, were used until the 1960s. The work was hard not only physically, but also "mentally", since during the delivery process, which often lasted several days, or even a week, the grapes began to ferment and "barreleiros" turned into "borrachos", that is, a "drunkard", and wineries, at best, only reached half of the harvest.

Madeirization

The process of vinification or making Madeira from fermented grape juice is very often called "Madeira" - according to legend, it was discovered back in the 16th century, when unsold wine barrels returned to the island and, having opened them, Madeira people were surprised by a new, rich taste, which acquired wine as a result of such "rides" in tropical latitudes. In fact, Madeira's "golden age" began only in the 17th century, when they learned to strengthen wine with brandy and carry it in holds to India and back. All this was done by the then powerful Dutch East India Company.

This whole process was named "estufagem" - from the Portuguese word "estufa", "warm house". And it consisted in the fact that with the addition of alcohol, the fermentation of the wine stopped, it was poured into oak barrels and kept for several years in rooms with a high temperature, which served as the ship's holds.

Over time, it became unprofitable to roll barrels on the sea, and the Canteiro process replaced the "istufage". The thing is that, thanks to the warm climate, it was possible to maintain the high temperature required for the "ripening" of Madeira, under natural conditions on the island of Madeira. This process is used to this day and consists in the fact that barrels with Madeira are placed in rooms with a high temperature: in attics, under the roof, which are heated by the sun's rays throughout the year. However, wine cannot stay in this temperature regime for a very long time and over time it is poured into barrels located one floor below, then even lower, and so on.

Over time, this method also became too expensive for the production of Madeira on an industrial scale. Therefore, for the production of the drink, heating systems based on hot water are actively used, in which either barrels of wine are heated in special rooms "armazens de calor" ("warm warehouses"), or direct heating of wine in steel tanks "estufas". This technology can reduce the vinification time to three to four months.

Excerpt

After the wine is obtained, it is usually aged and, since the process of harvesting, fermentation, vinification is continuous and repeats from year to year, some nuances arise. This is where the concepts of "vintage" and "mixture" appear.

The fact is that in the process of aging wine, which is carried out in the same American oak barrels, but in cooler rooms, its quality is constantly monitored, and the contents of different barrels corresponding to the harvests of different years can be mixed with each other. Subsequently, the resulting mixtures are aged, controlled and mixed again with crops or the same mixtures. As a result of such manipulations, it is possible to obtain a "decent" result at the output, but the wine obtained in this way will still remain a mixture.

The following mixtures are distinguished:

Seleccionado (Finest, Choice, Select) - from 3 to 5 years;
Reserve (Reserva) - from 5 to 10 years;
Special Reserve (Reserva Especial) - from 10 to 15 years old;
Extra Reserve - 15 to 20 years old.

However, some vintages remain “good” even without mixing - this is how vintage Madeiras appear, that is, wines of one vintage that have never been mixed with others during the aging process.

The vintages include:

Colheita (Single Harvest) - 5 to 20 years old;
Frasqueira or Garrafeira (Vintage Madeira) - from 20 years of aging plus 2 years in the bottle before the start of sale;
Vinho da Roda or Vinho da Torno or Vinho da Volta is a rare Madeira that traveled across the ocean, crossing the equator.

Tinta Negra

It's time to fulfill the promise made at the very beginning of this story and return to the "chameleon grape", or rather its variety "Tinta Negra". Its appearance in Madeira is due to the phyloxera epidemic, which not only struck the vineyards of Europe at the end of the 19th century, but also reached the islands of the Atlantic Ocean. As a result, the noble varieties suffered and wine began to be produced from these grapes.

Not only is Tinta Negra a red grape, unlike the Big Four, but due to certain manipulations, both dry and sweet Madeira varieties are produced equally well. The Madeirans are cunning, calling this variety "chameleon" - in fact, it is the raw material for about 80% of the cheap fortified wine produced on the island. Nevertheless, this is a large industry, it cannot be discounted and the entire technological process of obtaining Madeira, described above, must be viewed through the prism of "Tinta Negra".

Let's start with the harvest - due to different cultivation heights and different harvest times, grapes with different sugar content are obtained. Fermentation - comparable to conventional dry wines. Strengthening - also with alcohol. Madeirization - heating the wine to 45-50 degrees and aging at this temperature for 3-4 months in steel tanks. Excerpt - in steel tanks. As a result, the most common niche for the final wine: Seleccionado (Finest, Choice, Select), aged 3-5 years.

But how to distinguish the resulting drink from the "varietal types" of Madeira? It's very simple - not the grape variety will be written on the bottle, but the "sweetness" of the drink: seco (dry, "dry"), meio seco (medium dry, "semi-dry"), meio doce (medium sweet, "semi-sweet") and doce ( sweet, "sweet").

Storage and use

Unlike wine and some varieties of Porto, after Madeira has been bottled, it does not get worse or better - only, if a very long time passes, the bottle itself can become a rarity. Finally, unlike some varieties of sherry, after opening it does not need to be drunk very quickly or, on the contrary, left for thirty years in the pantry - an open bottle is stored for about six months.

Undoubtedly, dry Madeira, like most dry white wines, can be used as an aperitif, that is, before meals. The main purpose is a digestif, that is, after a meal, with desserts, coffee and chocolate.

Continuing the theme of fortified wines, one cannot but recall the most exquisite taste, difficult to make and unusual drink - “female cognac”, Madeira.

Continuing the theme of fortified wines, started in, one cannot but recall about, perhaps, the most exquisite in taste, difficult to make and unusual in its effect drink - "female cognac", Madeira.

I don’t know who has any associations with the word “Madeira”. For me, this is the last warmth of autumn, when the fading September sun throws its last supply of rays into the warmed fallen leaves, this is the smell of fragrant freshly cut grasses, smoke from smoldering fires, the subtle aroma of harvested fruits ... This is a drink for mature people, perfection that does not need improvements, this is life, as you understand it in your declining years. If there is something established in the world, something truly reliable, something that is guaranteed not to change, fail or betray, then this is Madeira.

"Twice Born by the Sun"

Madera is a unique wine with a complex unique recipe. In our stores you can find Madeira from "Massandra" - it is, albeit a high-quality, but still a fake, which differs from the real Vinho da Madeira in the same way as "White Aist" differs from "Martel". Madera is a regional product, it can be produced exclusively on the Portuguese island of the same name in the Atlantic, off the coast of Africa. An entire institute is involved in wine research and certification. ( I remember, when I was a student, I dabbled in the Madera almost every day. Probably, in Instituto do Vihno da Madeira I would be an excellent student.)

On the island of Madeira, grapes have been grown since the middle of the 15th century; local winemakers actively traded in wine all over the world. Once, because of the calm, the Portuguese dry cargo ships stuck for a long time in the equatorial latitudes. Due to the high temperature, the drink became unsuitable for sale and had to be brought back to Europe. Fortunately, someone's greed did not allow the valuable cargo to be poured out - the wine began to be tasted, and it turned out that it not only did not disappear, but even vice versa - acquired an exquisite color and taste, reminiscent of burnt sugar and roasted nuts. Very soon the barrels with the "defective" drink were taken away from the satisfied sailors and sent straight to the table of the best European courts.

The popularity of Madeira in Europe can be judged by one interesting fact. During the War of the Scarlet and White Roses, a comrade named George Plantagenet lived in London, he is also the Duke of Clarence, a merry fellow and a big drinker. One of his jokes was misunderstood - the duke was convicted of betraying his brother, King Edward IV and sentenced to death with the right to choose the method of mortification. Plantagenet, don't be a fool, chose drowning in a barrel with sweet Madeira - malvasia.

Since then, attempts have begun to artificially recreate the taste of "overexposed" wine. He was rocked on a special swing, and tormented at high temperatures in special "baths", and allowed to "breathe" the sea air. At this time, the popularity of the first batch of the drink reached such limits that it became profitable to specially equip entire squadrons of ships with wine on board and send them to maneuver around the equator. As a result, special greenhouses were invented, which allowed the barrels to be in direct sunlight, but not suffer from temperature extremes. From this time, you can begin the countdown of the life of the Madeira, which we know now.

Give the maderization of production!

"Maderization" refers to the aging process of wine in oak barrels, at elevated temperatures under the influence of direct sunlight. Tannins, oxygen and heat do a triple job of transforming ordinary wine into a true symphony of taste, color and aroma. The so-called "Maillard reaction" takes place in the liquid - amino acids and sugar, interacting, color the wine and give it hints of nut and caramel. The same happens, for example, when a dark crust forms on the cake to be baked.

Of course, before Madeira is made, Vinho da Madeira undergoes pressing (in small "family" factories, grapes are still pounded with their feet), fermentation and fortification with 96% brandy. The wort ferments from a month to just one day. Madera differs according to such criteria as:

Colour- white is made from grapes Sersial (Riesling), Muscatel, Malvasia, and red - from the varieties "Tinto Negra", "Negra Mole", "Bastardo".
Sweetness... The fermentation of must from different grapes is interrupted at different stages. Madeira can be completely good-natured - Dry Madeira (Sersial), semi-dry (Verdello), semi-sweet and sweet (Boal). An exceptionally sweet ("dessert") Madeira is obtained from the Malvasia variety.
And of course, excerpt... Madeira is aged for three years, 5 years (Reserva), 10 (Reserva Velha), 15 (Exceptional Reserva) and 20 (Fresqueira Vintage). Due to the fact that wine is specially aged during production, the bottle can be kept open for up to one and a half years. In a sealed form, it lies as much as necessary ( in barrels the drink evaporates quickly, read the article ««- ed.).

In 1999, a tasting of the world's oldest Madeira made in 1670, accidentally found in a littered wine cellar, was held in London. The wine turned out to be quite drinkable.

Madera owes her appearance to chance. Thanks to another accident that happened in the American city of Savannah, a new, unique Madeira variety called Rainwater was discovered. It turned out that the wine, standing in barrels in the rain for a long time, significantly loses its strength, while retaining its excellent taste and aroma. This drink is very popular with Americans.

"Tsar's Madeira" with small Arnautskaya

Despite the fact that the name of Madeira is the same as the name of the island on which it is produced, the inhabitants of Madeira drink very little of it. Fortified, perfectly tolerates rolling, heat and sun, Madeira is popular mainly outside Portugal. It is very much appreciated in the States - at one time Jefferson raised a glass with this particular drink, marking the proclamation of independence. And in tsarist Russia, "sunny" wine was so popular that Paul I at one time granted his supplier the baronial title.

By the way, in Catherine's times, Madeira was used as a medicine - to raise the tone and maintain strength during recovery. Doctors recommended that old men drink a small glass of this drug every day. And according to rumors, Madeira saved the life of the mysterious Grishka Rasputin. They allegedly tried to poison the "All-Russian priest" by pouring cyanide into a glass of wine (which, by the way, he could drink 3-4 bottles a day). The unusual sweet wine weakened the effect of the poison and Rasputin remained alive.

By the 19th century, the popularity of the drink had reached such limits that they began to "body" it to the right and to the left. It was possible to get a bottle of a real Portuguese Madeira only “from over the hill”.

“Madeira comes in many varieties: real, authentic and gishpan [Spanish]. Of these, only "gishpanskaya" is manufactured at Vasilievsky, and the rest of the varieties are mostly in Moscow. "

(Old Russian joke)

By the way, the phrase "Tsar's Madeira" has nothing to do with wine - this is how the builders of St. Petersburg called "front-line 100 grams" of cheap vodka, which was given to them daily by Peter's decrees.

Madeira was forged throughout Europe and America - winemakers not only made wine using a similar technology, but also tried to “make” ready-made wines of other varieties. We also established production - in Armenia, Moldova, in the Kuban. But the Crimean plant "Massandra" has achieved the greatest success. The enterprise even has a separate "maderization workshop" - an open area under the burning subtropical sun, where barrels of wine stand for 5-6 years. "Madera Massandra", "Crimean" and no longer produced "Madera Koktebel" are in great demand and have a number of prestigious international awards. Of course, they will not be able to satisfy the sophisticated "Madeira snob", but they are quite suitable for ordinary connoisseurs, and besides, they will perfectly fit into a variety of cocktails.

“Don't scold vermouth for not being Madeira. He's vermouth, and it's written on his label. "

(Victor Konetsky)

Probably none of the alcoholic beverages has as many varieties and producing countries as wine. Moreover, each country has its own national grape drink, for example, in Portugal, it is Madera.

Sometimes this drink is also called Madeira after the island on which it was invented.

In general, Madera is the general name for a group of strong wines that can be red and white, sweet or dry.

Madeira, depending on its type, can be served in, or can be consumed in general separate from the meal or become the main alcohol on the table. It all depends on its specific type.

But all varieties of this fortified wine have only one thing in common - an identical production technology. The wine is placed in a special sealed container, where it is kept for a long time at a high stable temperature.

It is this technological subtlety that makes it possible to end up with a drink with an amber color and a subtle nutty flavor.

The average strength of such alcohol is about 20 turns, and the volume of sugar does not exceed 7 units.
The taste of such a drink is complex with a distinctly tangible aftertaste of alcohol, but at the same time it can be called harmonious.
The aroma is quite pungent and tart.
Madeira has a rather heavy aftertaste, so you should definitely eat it with a snack.

History of appearance

Madera or port, as it is also called, first appeared in the early 16th century.

But then, the first wine could not be stored for too long. And, one day, by pure chance, the ship carrying the drink got into a severe storm, as a result, the ship had to be returned to the point of departure.

But the wine itself, under the influence of changing temperatures and pressure, acquired a new taste and aroma, which are clearly better than they were before.

Then Madeira began to withstand more time after preparation, and the finished drink was stored and insisted in the attics of houses, where it was kept in an artificial sauna.

In the 18th century The new world met Madeira and was delighted with her. This fortified wine began to be drunk in many countries of the world, even in Africa and everywhere it was very popular.
BUT early 1900s Madeira has gained worldwide fame and popularity. It began to be made not only in Portugal, but also in other countries. However, the Portuguese themselves, as well as professional sommeliers today insist that only that fortified wine, which is produced on the island of Madeira from grapes grown there and prepared according to the classical technology, can bear the proud name of Madeira.

Watch the video, which tells about the features and history of the appearance of Madera wine:

Today it is quite difficult to find a real Madeira on store shelves. Under its name, unscrupulous producers often sell cheap port, which has nothing to do with real Portuguese fortified wine.

Therefore, it is very important to study modern the classification of this alcohol, so as not to run into a fake.

Types of drink native to Portugal

Like any other wine, this Portuguese alcoholic product is divided into several groups.

Depending on the aging period, Madera can be:

Finest- the simplest and most affordable alcoholic drink. His age usually does not exceed three years;
Reserve- Madeira, five years old. Compared to the previous alcoholic drink, you have a more complex taste and aroma, and the color of such a drink is one tone darker;
Special reserve- this is an alcoholic drink with aging for 10 years, has a rich taste and aroma and is in rather high demand among connoisseurs of such alcohol;
Extra reserve- this is already a rare Madeira, which is kept in special containers for fifteen years before bottling.
Frasqueira Vintage- the strongest and most refined Madeira. She is over twenty years old. Therefore, it is not surprising that such a strong wine is in greatest demand among true connoisseurs of such grape alcoholic beverages. It has a very complex taste and a long nutty aftertaste.

Like some other representatives of this alcohol, such a fortified wine can be made from one grape variety or from a combination.

On this basis, Madeira is subdivided into two large groups:

Rainwate- a simple wine made from one grape variety - Tinto Negra. It has a simpler taste and a sweetish aroma, and is quite affordable.
Solera- this wine is made by analogy with sherry. That is, for its production, it uses not just different grape varieties, but also mixes wines produced in different years with each other. The result is an exquisite blended alcoholic drink with a complex aroma and an elegant, but at the same time, pronounced taste.

Reference! Usually Madeira of the Frasqueira Vintage and extra reserve categories are blended drinks and are quite expensive. But as the reviews show, true Madera fully pays for its price, with unforgettable taste.

There is one more criterion for dividing this alcohol into several types, namely the degree of sweetness of the finished drink:

Malvasia Candida- sweet wine, which is sometimes also called malvasia.
Bual, Malvasia Fina- a half-assed Madeira, the Portuguese themselves call her Baul.
Gouveio- verdel - semi-dry fortified wine.
Esgana cao- Sercial il dry wine.

reference! All of these names duplicate the name of the white grape varieties that are used for the production of Portuguese Madeira.

There are two more types of grapes - Terrantez and Bastardo trousseau- these are white and red varieties, using which you can get semi-dry or semi-sweet wine.

The peculiarity is that such grapes are now a rarity and a ready made Madeira made from it is very expensive. Therefore, the sommelier and the producers themselves distinguish these two species in a separate category.

The label of each bottle must contain information about which type of alcoholic drink belongs to.

Before making a purchase, you should carefully study the composition.

Attention! If Madeira is made from one grape variety, then in the composition this ingredient will be marked as 100%. If fortified wine belongs to blended drinks, then the composition should contain a note that the first wine on the list should occupy at least 85% of the total volume.

Only a fortified wine that meets these requirements can be considered a true Madera.

How to drink properly?

The impression made by this alcoholic drink on a person is huge, if not a key influence, is also exerted by the correct way of drinking it.

The Portuguese themselves and professional sommeliers around the world recommend drinking Madeira as follows:

If the fortified wine has not been pre-chilled before serving, then it should be served either as a digestif, or altogether separately from food. In both cases, they drink such alcohol in small sips, savoring each new portion of the drink. In this case, you can eat Madeira with nuts, chocolate or biscuit pastries.
But it is best to drink such a drink directly with meals or as an aperitif. In this case, its optimum temperature is 16 degrees.
After the bottle has been uncorked, Madeira should be allowed to breathe for half an hour. So the aroma and taste will fully unfold.
Madeira is poured only into tulip glasses, in which the bowl opens upwards. They should only be held by the leg. In order not to contribute to the heating of the drink too quickly.
The glass is filled no more than 2/3 and before the first sip, the wine itself should be slightly shaken so that it releases its main aroma. It is also recommended here to first evaluate the smell of the drink, and only then proceed to its direct tasting.

If we talk about what is the best snack for this drink, if it is not served as a digestif, then there are a lot of options.

Madeira is a versatile alcohol and can be combined with any, both first and second courses.

The only thing true sommeliers advise is to serve red fortified wine with any meat and game dishes, but white combine wine with fish and seafood.

The real Portuguese Madera is really a very tasty and rich wine, with a unique taste and aroma. But it should be used carefully - because of its high strength, it quickly causes intoxication.

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